209 West Cermak Road (map)
(312) 842-1964
$

In Chicago’s Chinatown there are two restaurants bearing the name Three Happiness: a large second-floor restaurant on South Wentworth, which is not very good, and “Little” Three Happiness on West Cermak. Different owners, different menus, different philosophies.

“Little” Three Happiness is a modest-looking Chinese restaurant, short on decor but long on wonderful food—a perfect example of Calvin Trillin’s “Inverse Ambience Theory of Chinese Restaurants.” The restaurant does many things well, from Cantonese/American (their Shrimp Toast is excellent) to Hong Kong–style seafood (Stir-Fried Crab with Ginger and Scallion is a perennial favorite), to vegetable dishes such as a simple stir-fry of watercress or ong choi (water vegetable).

Noodle dishes, both thin wheat-flour noodles and fresh rice noodles stir-fried crisp with a variety of ingredients, are particularly good at Three Happiness. Highly recommended are the Pan-Fried Thin (flour) Noodles with Mixed Seafood. In the Pan-Fried Rice Noodles with Roast Duck, the subtle five-spice seasoning perfectly complements the rich duck and its crispy skin.
Three Happiness really excels in the seafood category. The Dry Stir-Fried Crab with Ginger and Scallion is wonderful, though the Clams with Black Bean sauce are equally delicious; light saucing and an even hand with spicing allow the flavor of the pristinely fresh clams to shine though. Fresh fish fillets and/or lobster prepared a variety of ways are also available and quite tasty. The mixed seafood consists of standards like shrimp and squid, quickly delving into more exotic items, such as fish lung and sea cucumber (a.k.a. sea slug).

Salt and Pepper Shrimp—shell-on shrimp quickly cooked in a dry wok with salt, five-spice powder, and Szechuan pepper—are spicy, juicy, and delicious. Three Happiness also has shell-off salt-and-pepper shrimp with the same spicing, but coated with a light batter and fried. In fact, the kitchen prepares shrimp many different ways, including shell-on boiled.
Any of the sour green dishes, chicken, tripe, or squid make a nice counterpoint to the crisp noodle dishes, as do the bitter melon offerings. Sautéed Snails with Black Bean and Garlic are difficult to eat but quite delicious, and Pike Fillets Steamed with Ginger and Scallion will offer the less adventurous a delicious alternative to sea cucumber or snail.
Crispy-Skin Chicken, served with cilantro, lemon wedges, and a Szechuan pepper-salt mix for dredging, is a wonder of a dish. Crisp, succulent skin and moist, tender meat are perfectly complemented by the lemon’s acidity and the flavor of the dredging mixture.

After a meal at “Little” Three Happiness, you’ll agree that good things do come in smaller packages.