500 North Clark Street (map)
(312) 321-6242
www.naha-chicago.com
Closed Sunday
$$$–$$$$

Chef/owner Carrie Nahabedian had tall boots to fill when she opened Naha in 2000 in the former location of Gordon, the legendary Gordon Sinclair’s venerable eatery. Yet despite overhauling the formerly dramatic, almost over-the-top interior with clean, open spaces and minimal yet comfortable fittings, Nahabedian has honored the site’s tradition of innovative and assertive food.

Nahabedian takes a very personal approach to what she puts on her menus. Reflecting her family’s Armenian roots and the time she spent in California, her inspirations are seasonal produce, the weather, and her heritage. One of the most platonically perfect items on the menu is Mother’s Own Feta Cheese Filo Triangles, served on a Mediterranean Greek salad. The direct simplicity inherent in this dish is reflected in other, exquisitely executed dishes, albeit with a more sophisticated approach. Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Roasted Heirloom Apple and Quince Tarte Tatin, Green Peppercorns, and Banyuls; and Pacific Coast Halibut and Warm Organic Heirloom Potato Salad with Leeks, Crème Fraîche, and Chives, are just two of the stunners on a recent menu. A stellar list of wines by the glass or bottle yields a few enchanting surprises, as well as more familiar favorites from around the globe.

Nahabedian looks at the weather to get a feel for what her diners will be in the mood for. During a recent cold snap as only Chicago can deliver, the menu featured a cornucopia of substantial winter vegetables, including beets, braised cabbage, squash, and turnips, all paired with game or hearty meats. Organics are a preference.

Nahabedian also takes particular pleasure in sourcing exotic or unusual ingredients, such as argan and pine nut oils from a store in Paris that specializes solely in oils. The argan oil made an appearance recently with Roast Bobwhite Quail with Organic Carnaroli Risotto, Smoked Duck, and Crimson Pearl Onions. Argan oil production is supported by a Slow Food International Presidium (see p. ix). Four all-female cooperatives in Morocco husk the argan seeds and press the oil, which is deep golden yellow in color and has notes of hazelnuts and a deeply toasted flavor. The new industry provides an important income for women who often have few opportunities to work outside the home. The Presidium sustains the work of the cooperatives by seeking new markets.

In partnership with her cousin, Michael, Nahabedian has created an airy and amiable dining room that reflects her easygoing nature. Whether you come here to impress an important client, celebrate a special occasion, or just to enjoy great food and relax with friends, Naha never fails to deliver.