2610 North Cannon Drive (map)
(773) 477-5845
www.northpondrestaurant.com
Closed Monday
$$$–$$$$

While the food is the main reason to visit North Pond, the setting offers an excuse to linger. The circa-1912 building was originally a warming house for skaters on the Lincoln Park lagoon, and now the restaurant is decorated in an Arts and Crafts style that pays homage to Chicago’s rich architectural heritage. The best views of the park and the downtown skyline are in the room that was formerly the outdoor patio, now enclosed in a 2002 expansion to provide all-weather seating, but sporting nine-foot windows that open to catch a late spring breeze.

Chef/partner Bruce Sherman passed the Slow Food litmus test when he was frequently spotted at Chicago’s Green City Market, physically loading a truck with fresh produce destined for North Pond’s kitchen. For instance, when visitors stop by for dinner during summer, they can enjoy a tartlet featuring Len Klug Farm blueberries picked the day before and purchased only that morning.

Sherman came to the stove via a circuitous route. He studied at the London School of Economics, worked in restaurant management and catering, lived in India for three years, and studied cooking in Paris. In 1999 he arrived at North Pond and has wowed Chicagoans ever since.

The five-course tasting menu is a delightful way to experience Sherman’s range. Courses might include Roasted Sea Scallops with Melted Leeks, Cauliflower Mousseline, and Apple Emulsion, followed by Lamb with Caramelized Onion Ravioli, Broccoli Flan, and Wine Syrup. For those in the mood for more casual fare, lunchtime visitors can enjoy one of the best upscale grilled cheese sandwiches in the city, served with a baby beet salad.

A three-course brunch offers many choices, and might begin with Wild Salmon served with a Goat Cheese Terrine, followed by Smoked Pork Tenderloin with Roasted Squash, Brussels Sprouts, and Balsamic Vinegar Reduction, topped off with pumpkin and ginger ice creams, or three other tempting desserts.

Sherman is another example of chefs who consider their impact on the world outside the kitchen. He tacks a dollar charge onto each bottle of wine, which the North Pond then matches and donates to food-related nonprofit organizations (including Slow Food). He composts and recycles 90 percent of the restaurant’s trash, and is active in Chefs Collaborative, a professional group dedicated to local growers, artisanal producers, and sustainable growing practices. He’s currently planning to open a second restaurant focused on sustainable seafood. Sherman was named one of the best new chefs for 2003 by Food & Wine magazine, although Chicago cognoscenti have enjoyed his cooking for some time.